‘You know how new hair grows in under old hair?’ I said to Neil through the bathroom wall. ‘Yeah?’ ‘Well, all my new hair is gray,’ I said. Before we headed off on our most recent road trip, I spent some time looking at myself in the mirror. I figured out some things. I should probably drink more water. I may start wearing some make up, all the time. But not really. Ah’m no bad, as they say over here.…

